Monday, April 13, 2009

So Botox Isn’t Just Skin Deep


Michael Falco for The New York Times

Botox is used by Dr. Andrew Blitzer to treat vocal cord problems; he injects it into the larynx.

Published: April 11, 2009
Dr. Andrew Blitzer, the director of the Center for Voice and Swallowing Disorders at St. Luke’s-Roosevelt Hospital Center in Manhattan, has an antidote for speech impediments caused by vocal cord problems: he injects Botox into the larynx. DR. MARK STILLMAN, the director of the Center for Headache and Pain at the Cleveland Clinic, has a treatment for people with frequent migraines: he injects Botox around the head and neck. Dr. Fredric Brandt, a dermatologist in Manhattan and Coral Gables, Fla., has a novel procedure for oily skin and skin redness.
You guessed it: Botox.
Over the last decade, Botox has become a synonym for the eradication of wrinkles, a kind of shorthand for the entire enterprise of cosmetic medicine. But now, with the popularization of new medical uses, therapeutic applications of the drug are poised to outstrip the cosmetic treatment in both revenue and prominence.


In the hunt to discover the next blockbuster medical use for Botox, doctors have injected it experimentally into muscles and glands all over the body, making it medicine’s answer to duct tape. According to recent medical journals, physicians have used it to treat chewing problems, swallowing problems, pelvic muscle spasms, drooling, hair loss, anal fissures and pain from missing limbs.

“We see it as a molecule that keeps on giving. As we understand it more, it gives us new ideas of how to use it,” says Dr. Mitchell F. Brin, a neurologist who is the chief scientific officer for Botox at Allergan, the drug’s maker.

No other therapeutic agent “has so many demonstrated uses,” he says.

But some health advocates worry that doctors are widely adopting novel uses for Botox before federal guidance and rigorous clinical studies have established safe and effective dosages for the new treatments.

“It’s trial and error with a nerve poison,” says Dr. Sidney M. Wolfe, the director of the health research group at Public Citizen, a consumer advocacy group. Last year, the group petitioned the Food and Drug Administration to require a warning label for injectable toxins.

BOTOX is a purified form of botulinum toxin, a nerve poison produced by the bacteria that cause botulism, a disease that paralyzes muscles and can be fatal. Injections of Botox act like minuscule poison darts that temporarily blunt chemical nerve signals to certain muscles or glands, reducing their activity.

The F.D.A. has approved Botox to treat four problems: eye muscle disorders, neck muscle disorders, excessive sweating — and that deadly age giveaway, eyebrow furrows. But Allergan, a $14.5 billion specialty pharmaceutical company, owns or has applied for patents on more than 90 uses for the drug.

Dr. Brin of Allergan says Botox has a long safety track record — backed by 30 years of favorable research, studies on 11,000 people worldwide and 17 million treatments in the United States since 1994.

“That safety profile has enabled us to continue to explore the product in deeper parts of the body and in more novel areas,” Dr. Brin says. Allergan does not promote unapproved uses of the drug, he says.

Botox was developed in the 1970s by Dr. Alan Scott, an ophthalmologist in San Francisco who was searching for a cure for crossed eyes. He theorized that minute doses of a nerve poison used to weaken the muscles that pull crossed eyes inward could treat the malady, and he experimented with a variety of paralytic agents.

Then a biochemist who had isolated and purified a strain of botulinum toxin for potential military use as a biological weapon sent Dr. Scott a sample. It worked.

Dr. Scott named the new drug Oculinum. In 1989, the F.D.A. approved it to treat crossed eyes and twitching eyelids. Allergan bought Oculinum in 1991 for about $9 million, rebranding it Botox. When David E. I. Pyott became chief executive of the company in 1998, Botox had $90 million in annual sales. Last year, sales topped $1 billion.

“Nobody at Allergan understood how big a gold mine they were sitting on,” Mr. Pyott says.

Drug companies often rely on multiple products to fill their pipelines. But at Allergan, Botox became a virtual pipeline in and of itself after the arrival of Mr. Pyott, who recognized that it was a medication that could be serially reincarnated for other applications.

Doctors, who are permitted to use approved drugs in unapproved ways as they deem appropriate, were already using Botox off-label at the time on body parts other than eye muscles. Some physicians reported that patients had unexpected side effects — fewer headaches, for example, or smoother skin — after they had Botox.

Mr. Pyott invested heavily in expanding in-house research and encouraged doctors to formalize their anecdotal observations with published research. He also recognized that some Americans would be willing to pay handsomely for injections that tempered wrinkles. To prove the efficacy of the drug, the company sponsored clinical trials to use Botox for cosmetic medical purposes and for other muscle disorders.

Over the last nine years, the F.D.A. has approved Botox to treat neck muscle spasms and to hinder excessive sweating. The agency also approved the same drug, under the name Botox Cosmetic, to smooth forehead wrinkles.

Last year, Botox had worldwide sales of $1.3 billion, divided about equally between cosmetic and medical uses. Among botulinum toxins, Botox has an 83 percent share of the market, Allergan said.

But, with competing toxins set to enter the American market, Allergan has positioned Botox for other medical uses. Mr. Pyott says he expects therapeutic sales of the drug to soon eclipse sales of Botox Cosmetic.

Health insurers sometimes cover medical uses of Botox; a treatment for a clenched jaw might cost $1,000 every three months, for example. But for cosmetic treatments, which dipped slightly at the end of last year, consumers must pay cash.

“The therapeutic will end up being bigger than the cosmetic even if the economy recovers because there are some big unmet medical needs there,” Mr. Pyott says.

In the next few months, the company is expecting federal approval to market the drug for stroke victims suffering from limb tightness or spasms.

Later this year, Allergan plans to seek approval to market the drug for chronic migraine headaches, Mr. Pyott said. He also said the company eventually plans to seek F.D.A. approval to market Botox for benign enlarged prostate.

But many doctors are not waiting for federal sanction to inject Botox for these and other disorders. While Allergan doesn’t break down Botox sales, Gary Nachman, an analyst at Leerink Swann, an investment bank, estimates that perhaps as much as half of Botox sales already come from off-label uses.

Enlarge This Image
Michael Falco for The New York Times

Dr. Blitzer also uses the drug to treat severe jaw muscle pain.



Michael Falco for The New York Times

Allergan, Botox’s maker, owns or has applied for patents on more than 90 uses for it.

“It’s the magic bullet,” says Mr. Nachman.

BOTOX is so widely adopted in medicine — and ingrained in popular culture — that some doctors don’t think that novel uses are experiments.

Several years ago, Dr. Kamran Jafri, a facial surgeon in Manhattan, started injecting Botox just under the skin of the face, a technique that he says reduces pore size, blotchiness and oily skin.

“Dosing is by trial and error,” Dr. Jafri says. “I don’t think it’s experimental because it’s a treatment I’ve been doing a lot and it’s been working.”

Such ad hoc uses of Botox are perfectly legal for doctors. But some medical professionals are concerned that doctors are experimenting with and adopting Botox therapy before clinical trials and government approval have established safe doses for new indications — and without definitive proof that the new treatments work.

While life-threatening complications following use of Botox and other botulinum toxins are rare, a few people have died after they were treated. In some cases, the toxin has spread from the injection site, causing serious swallowing and breathing problems. For example, several children with cerebral palsy died after receiving large doses in their limbs.

“It is possible to over-inject. This is a poison,” says Dr. Frederick Burgess, the chief of anesthesia at the V.A. Medical Center in Providence, R.I. “Things can go wrong. It is rare, but it happens.”

Last year, Public Citizen petitioned the F.D.A., asking for a stronger warning on botulinum toxins that would emphasize the risk of diffusion from the injection site and the need for patients to seek immediate medical care for swallowing or breathing difficulties. The Canadian health authority instituted such a labeling change earlier this year.

Mr. Pyott of Allergan says that there have been a few serious problems following Botox injections — but not necessarily directly caused by the drug. Some patients had serious illnesses prior to treatment, he said.

“Physicians have experimented with higher and higher doses,” Mr. Pyott says. “Like any drug, if you take too much, you can have side effects.”

The F.D.A is reviewing the safety of botulinum toxins, according to an agency press release. Last year, the agency also postponed approval of a new toxin called Dysport for use in neck muscle problems. The F.D.A. asked the manufacturer to first develop a plan for communicating the risk of the drug to doctors and patients.

On Monday, the F.D.A. is due to issue a decision on the cosmetic version of Dysport, called Reloxin.

Johnson & Johnson is also developing an anti-wrinkle injection called PureTox.

But industry analysts predicted that the F.D.A. would postpone approving any new botulinum toxins until regulators have finalized a stronger warning label for all of the brands.

WHEN Mr. Pyott arrived at Allergan, it specialized in eye-care pharmaceuticals. Over the last decade, he has turned it into the house that Botox built, expanding credibility for the drug in various medical specialties by buying complementary businesses.

To solidify Allergan’s dominance in appearance medicine, for example, the company spent $3.2 billion in 2006 to acquire Inamed, a leading maker of skin-plumping injections and breast implants. In preparation for the planned introduction of Botox as a treatment for headaches, overactive bladder and enlarged prostates, the company has also established itself in neurology and urology by developing or marketing other specialty drugs, Mr. Pyott says.

The possibility of lucrative new uses for Botox has not gone unnoticed. After rumors of a possible merger with GlaxoSmithKline last month, Allergan stock rose almost 24 percent over the course of two days, to $48.95; it now trades at $47.47. Both companies declined to comment on merger rumors.

“This is a bad time to sell because they are not going to get rewarded for all of the wonderful stuff in the pipeline,” says Ronny Gal, an analyst at Sanford C. Bernstein. “I would stay independent for a couple of years.”

Mr. Gal says sales of Botox could double within the next five to seven years, provided that the F.D.A. approves new major medical uses. One million people or more might seek Botox injections for chronic headaches, while the audience for benign enlarged prostate would be “practically every man over the age of 75,” Mr. Gal says.

MR. PYOTT has a master plan, meanwhile, to expand the Botox franchise even further. The company is developing new iterations of the drug intended to treat specific targets, such as pain receptors, without weakening muscles.

Allergan also owns or has applied for patents on dozens of other uses for its toxin, a move to pre-empt competitors from marketing their products for expanded uses.

“I feel a little bit like I am sitting with a beautiful vessel inside the harbor but I forgot to give you the map to where our mines are,” Mr. Pyott says of the Botox patents that he said were filed in different countries. “There could be a big bang when you hit one of our patents.”

But Mr. Gal, the analyst, devoted his Christmas vacation to unearthing about 90 patent applications worldwide by Allergan. These included Botox for sinus headache, fibromyalgia pain, ulcers, inner ear disorders and uterine problems as well as appearance treatments like “buttock deformity.”

Nevertheless, there are still a few ailments that Botox does not claim to solve. Botox doesn’t work on stuttering, for example, because it involves too many parts of the anatomy — including the lips, the larynx and the tongue, says Dr. Brin of Allergan.

“Stuttering is too complicated,” Dr. Brin says a little wistfully. “It didn’t pan out.”

Surgeon studies benefits of scar-reducing tape


Sunday, April 12, 2009
BY ABIGAIL LEICHMAN
NorthJersey.com
SPECIAL TO THE BERGEN RECORD

An Englewood Cliffs plastic surgeon is leading a study on an elasticized tape that may reduce or prevent raised scars.

Dr. Steve Fallek said he became intrigued by Kinesio Tex Tape — developed by a Chinese chiropractor in the 1970s — while watching the 2008 Olympic Games. Beach volleyball player Kerri Walsh had the tape fixed to her shoulder, reportedly to enhance circulation and to stabilize the muscles after surgery.

Fallek contacted the company and discovered that Tex Tape, widely used by physical therapists, also has been helpful in preventing and minimizing raised scars.

"There are anecdotal reports that people swear by it not only for muscle pain and recovery from surgery and injury, but also to prevent and minimize keloid scars," said Fallek, who also practices in Manhattan and writes about plastic surgery in magazines such as Us Weekly and Life and Style.

"So many products on the market claim to promote healing, but there are no scientific studies that any of these things work," he said. "I wanted to do a study to test this one out."

Fallek began the investigation early in March and is seeking additional participants ages 18 and over who have one of two types of thick, collagen-based scars: hypertrophic and keloid.

Hypertrophic scars are generally red and raised but do not grow beyond the boundaries of the original wound. Keloids, most common in African-Americans, keep growing indefinitely. "The body lays down scar tissue and doesn't turn off the healing process," explained Fallek.

Kinesio provided tutorials to Fallek on how to apply the tape, and it is supplying the product for the study at no cost. The applications are non-invasive, painless and free to study participants. "The only restriction is anyone who's sensitive to adhesives," he said.

A plastic surgeon's typical anti-scar arsenal consists of products ranging from sunscreen, Vitamin E, silicone gel sheeting and cocoa butter to steroid injections, laser surgery and massage. Fallek said he's often asked about advertised products such as Mederma, which is made of onion extract, but there is no scientific proof of its effectiveness.

"Everybody is interested in preventing and minimizing scars, and there's so much misinformation out there," he said. "I thought we could take this to a different level since nobody has scientifically studied this before."

To inquire about participating in the study, contact Fallek's North Jersey office at 201-541-4181 or info@fallekplasticsurgery.com.

An Englewood Cliffs plastic surgeon is leading a study on an elasticized tape that may reduce or prevent raised scars.

Dr. Steve Fallek said he became intrigued by Kinesio Tex Tape — developed by a Chinese chiropractor in the 1970s — while watching the 2008 Olympic Games. Beach volleyball player Kerri Walsh had the tape fixed to her shoulder, reportedly to enhance circulation and to stabilize the muscles after surgery.

Fallek contacted the company and discovered that Tex Tape, widely used by physical therapists, also has been helpful in preventing and minimizing raised scars.

"There are anecdotal reports that people swear by it not only for muscle pain and recovery from surgery and injury, but also to prevent and minimize keloid scars," said Fallek, who also practices in Manhattan and writes about plastic surgery in magazines such as Us Weekly and Life and Style.

"So many products on the market claim to promote healing, but there are no scientific studies that any of these things work," he said. "I wanted to do a study to test this one out."

Fallek began the investigation early in March and is seeking additional participants ages 18 and over who have one of two types of thick, collagen-based scars: hypertrophic and keloid.

Hypertrophic scars are generally red and raised but do not grow beyond the boundaries of the original wound. Keloids, most common in African-Americans, keep growing indefinitely. "The body lays down scar tissue and doesn't turn off the healing process," explained Fallek.

Kinesio provided tutorials to Fallek on how to apply the tape, and it is supplying the product for the study at no cost. The applications are non-invasive, painless and free to study participants. "The only restriction is anyone who's sensitive to adhesives," he said.

A plastic surgeon's typical anti-scar arsenal consists of products ranging from sunscreen, Vitamin E, silicone gel sheeting and cocoa butter to steroid injections, laser surgery and massage. Fallek said he's often asked about advertised products such as Mederma, which is made of onion extract, but there is no scientific proof of its effectiveness.

"Everybody is interested in preventing and minimizing scars, and there's so much misinformation out there," he said. "I thought we could take this to a different level since nobody has scientifically studied this before."

To inquire about participating in the study, contact Fallek's North Jersey office at 201-541-4181 or info@fallekplasticsurgery.com.

Thursday, April 2, 2009

Heads Up, Botox



Ron Heflin/Associated Press
Published: April 1, 2009

IN the seven years since its approval for cosmetic use, Botox has succeeded in winning over the hearts and brows of many a desperate housewife — not to mention an age-defying politician or two. The wrinkle smoother has made billions for its maker, Allergan, and made it harder and harder to guess the age of news anchors. She could be 50; only her dermatologist really knows.


A NEW WRINKLE Will Reloxin, expected to be approved by the F.D.A. this year, be more effective or affordable?

But this blockbuster drug may soon face fierce competition if the Food and Drug Administration approves Reloxin, another injectable made from the botulinum toxin, which has had success temporarily smoothing wrinkles in other countries.

The buzz among doctors that has been spreading in the news media and on beauty-oriented Web sites like RealSelf.com is that Reloxin works more quickly and lasts longer than the roughly four months Botox does. Dr. Leslie Baumann, a University of Miami dermatologist who did some of the clinical trials for Botox and Reloxin, recently said on NBC’s “Today” show, “It’s time that we have something that lasts a little bit longer” than Botox.

But does the truth match the early expectations for Reloxin? Much is at stake for Medicis Pharmaceutical, the American drug company that has licensed the wrinkle smoother from its French maker, Ipsen, and has conducted the pivotal trials, which have been presented to the F.D.A. for approval. So far, studies have not proven definitively that either Botox or Dysport (as Reloxin is known in Europe and South America) has an edge in terms of how long it lasts or how quickly it takes effect.

“To be honest, if you just talk about aesthetics, there are no good comparative trials on Dysport and Botox,” said Dr. Berthold Rzany, an author of “Botulinum Toxin in Aesthetic Medicine” and the director of evidence-based medicine at Charité, the university hospital in Berlin, Germany.

Only small studies exist, Dr. Rzany said, adding that at least 300 participants would be needed to prove that one of the drugs lasts longer. Choosing a longer-lasting product would matter to consumers because both drugs are expensive. In England, a visit for Botox or Dysport costs roughly $250 to $430, said Dr. John Curran, the former president of the British Association of Cosmetic Doctors. (There is no information yet about how it might be priced in the United States.)

In the run-up to Reloxin’s possible approval by the F.D.A., several doctors in England, France, Germany and Brazil, who have injected both Botox and Dysport for cosmetic purposes, were interviewed to see what could be gleaned from their years of experience.

The resounding response is that one drug doesn’t necessarily keep the wrinkles at bay longer than the other. A skilled doctor can achieve similar results with either Botox or Dysport, the doctors agreed, but at least three doctors said that Dysport was less expensive for them to use.

Dosing is at the heart of much of the controversy about which wrinkle relaxer lasts longer, most of the foreign doctors said. A different amount of Dysport than Botox is needed to tame, say, frown lines or crow’s feet, but exactly how much is still a matter of debate. If approved, Reloxin will be deemed appropriate for the area between the eyebrows, but like Botox, doctors will likely inject it in other parts of the face as well.

“Educational efforts around appropriate utilization and dosing will be massive pending F.D.A. approval,” said Jonah Shacknai, the chief executive of Medicis.

But doctors in the United States will still face a learning curve, foreign doctors said. Going from Botox to Reloxin is akin to mastering a new language.

Dr. Doris Hexsel, a researcher and a dermatologist in private practice in Brazil, said that in 2004, three years after Dysport was approved there for cosmetic use, it took her a month to become familiar with the new drug after years of working with Botox. While she used a dosage that many other doctors found to be safe for the lower face, she was not entirely happy with the outcome.

“I gave to my patients stronger results than I would like,” said Dr. Hexsel, the author of medical books about botulinum toxins. She adjusted the dosage and, she said, “patients are happier with Dysport.” She added that she doesn’t wish to promote one drug over the other.

Some doctors say there is no grounds for asserting that one drug outlasts the other.

“If anyone out there is saying that Dysport is better than Botox, they are marketing,” Dr. Curran said. “They are both very good products. They do an excellent job medically and aesthetically. By altering the dilution you can get the same effect.”

Dr. Benjamin Ascher, a plastic surgeon in Paris who specializes in botulinum toxins, feels the same way. “Reloxin is a little bit stronger, which is not necessarily good or bad,” said Dr. Ascher, who has had research financed by Allergan and Ipsen. “When you have a product that works, it matters how much you put in the injection.”

Dr. Robin Stones, a medical director at Court House Clinics, which has seven outposts in England, uses both drugs. “There are certain situations when I may choose one or the other,” but not because of “patient preference,” Dr. Stones said. “Clients don’t tell me there’s any difference.”

By contrast, Dr. Nick Lowe, a dermatologist with patients in London and Santa Monica, Calif., thinks that Botox and Dysport work differently. He capitalizes on those differences and occasionally injects both drugs in a single visit to separate areas. If a patient has prominent crow’s feet around the eyes, “where you want a little more spread,” he said, he uses Dysport, which “definitely lasts a bit longer.”

Want to tame upper-lip lines? Botox, which he said doesn’t spread as much, is Dr. Lowe’s choice. (But for his own brow, Dr. Lowe, who used to consult for Allergan, prefers Dysport. “I get a slightly more natural look,” he explained, adding, “I don’t like that Dr. Spock look.”)

The F.D.A. will most likely update Medicis in mid-April, but most analysts expect a final decision on Reloxin later this year.

IF Reloxin is approved, an injector’s expertise will matter even more, doctors said. Dr. Seth Matarasso, a dermatologist in San Francisco who lectures about Botox, said he is still shocked that some doctors know little about facial anatomy, dilution procedures and complications. A new botulinum toxin, he said, is “a concern for the neophyte or someone who doesn’t inject a lot.”

Kate Lyra, an actress living in Rio de Janeiro and a patient of Dr. Hexsel’s, found an upside to Dysport. Five years ago, she said it tamed her slight frown lines and crow’s feet for about eight months, compared with five months with Botox.

“It definitely lasts much longer,” she said of Dysport. But, if the doctor lacks expertise, she said, you could be saddled with “a very odd expression” for longer.

At this point, it is unclear whether Reloxin will be less expensive than Botox for American doctors, and whether they will pass along savings to patients. Ultimately, the prospect of Reloxin injections lasting longer than Botox may make all the difference.

Consider a patient of Dr. Ascher’s who spoke on the condition that she not be named. Dr. Ascher had treated her frown lines and crow’s feet with Botox every four months, before switching to Dysport, which she said lasts five to six months.

“I am only going twice a year,” she said, “and only paying half.”

Friday, March 6, 2009

Dr. Fallek to study tape to prevent thickened scars

A Quirky Athletic Tape Gets Its Olympic Moment

Beach volleyball champion Kerri WalshBeach volleyball champion Kerri Walsh wearing a new type of athletic tape. (Natacha Pisarenko/The Associated Press)

Watching Olympian Kerri Walsh compete in beach volleyball last week, many viewers were wondering the same thing: what is that black thing on her shoulder?

A tattoo? A bizarre fashion statement? No. Ms. Walsh was sporting a new type of athletic tape called Kinesio, touted by physical therapists as a better way to relieve pain and promote healing of injured muscles.

The appearance of Kinesio on the well-toned Ms. Walsh — she even wore it while meeting President Bush — has spurred international interest in the little-known brand. In black, pink, blue and beige, the tape has been spotted on a number of other Olympians, including the shoulder of U.S. water polo player Lauren Wenger and the elbows of Canadian Greco Roman wrestler Ari Taub. Members of Spain’s basketball team and Jamaica’s track team are wearing it.

Ms. Walsh and the other athletes don’t have endorsement deals with Kinesio USA; the company simply donated 50,000 rolls of the tape to 58 countries for use at the Olympic Games. But whether its appearance on the international athletic scene is a sign of its therapeutic benefit or just smart marketing remains to be seen.

Traditionally, white athletic tapes are wrapped around gauze to form a stiff bandage that immobilizes a joint or muscle. By comparison, the 100-percent cotton Kinesio tape is said to be modeled on the thickness and elasticity of real skin. The flexible tape is applied to the skin in specific patterns, depending on the injury, a technique designed to create support and guide injured muscles and joints without limiting the athlete’s range of motion.

“This tape moves with the body, so the biomechanics are still there,” said John Jarvis, director of Kinesio USA.

Both the tape and the new wrapping technique have spread mostly by word-of-mouth among athletes and trainers who swear by it. Cycling great Lance Armstrong reportedly dedicates a page to the tape in his latest book. Recently soccer superstar David Beckham traded jerseys after a game and was spotted with pink Kinesio tape on his back.

Some limited data suggest it may be effective. In July, the Journal of Orthopaedic & Sports Physical Therapy published a study of 42 people with shoulder injuries. Half of them were treated with Kinesio tape applied in a pattern designed to support the injured muscle. The other half were given a “sham” treatment in which two strips of tape were simply pressed across the arm. The study was conducted by physical therapists at Winn Army Community Hospital in Fort Stewart, Ga., who didn’t receive funding from the tape company. Notably, the study participants who received the real therapeutic tape treatment reported an immediate improvement in pain.

Last year, Research in Sports Medicine published a study from San Jose State University showing that in 30 healthy test subjects, use of the tape along the lower trunk area appeared to increase the range of motion.

Kinesio claims that in addition to supporting injured muscles and joints, the new taping method helps relieve pain by lifting the skin, allowing blood to flow more freely to the injured area. The tape is also widely used in pediatric physical therapy for muscle disorders like cerebral palsy.

Given Kinesio’s high profile at the Olympics, it seems likely that we will be seeing more and more of it. Mr. Jarvis said the tape already is used by many professional basketball, baseball and football teams. Before the Olympics, the company Web site received about 600 views a day. Since Ms. Walsh appeared with the spider-like Kinesio pattern on her shoulder, Web traffic has jumped to 345,000 views daily.

Thursday, February 12, 2009

It’s Cold and Your Skin Is Suffering. So What Are You Doing to Moisturize?


Gabriella Minotto

Arctic waters leave long distance swimmer Lynne Cox's skin feeling "freeze-dried." Cox has developed a daily and nightly regimen of moisturizers to keep her skin from suffering.

Published: February 4, 2009

IT’S been a challenging winter for people with dry skin. The country has been blasted with Arctic air, making this winter the coldest so far in a decade, according to Scott Stephens, a meteorologist with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration National Climatic Data Center. With the cold comes low humidity — sometimes as low as 10 percent — along with moisture-stripping winds that can cause chapped, flaky skin.

“We’ve studied fish that live in Arctic waters, searching for a natural antifreeze in their skin,” said Dr. Tom Mammone, executive director of research and development at Clinique Worldwide. “A few years ago, we began to study the protein extensin, a natural antifreeze found in carrots, which prevents the carrots from developing ice crystals in the ground. We found, when we tested it, that it can work on human skin, too. So we added it to our product to help to prevent skin from changing temperature and from forming damaging crystals that can impair the barrier.”

Dr. Neil Sadick, a dermatologist in Manhattan, said, “Using a product that contains a plant glycoprotein mixture such as this can make a significant difference, helping to keep cells humidified and keep the skin protected against environmental assault, such as cold, dry air.”

Yet among the thousands of expensive moisturizers on the market, many skin care experts across the country recommend some half-dozen or so tried and true, inexpensive brands: Eucerin Dry Skin Therapy Plus Intensive Repair Body Crème ($8.99), Nivea Creme ($7.99) and Aveeno Skin Relief Moisturizing Lotion ($9.29).

“In this kind of weather, moisturizers that contain humectants and fats that help repair that outer layer of skin can be a good strong barrier against the elements,” Dr. Greenberg said. Petrolatum products — think Vaseline Petroleum Jelly or Aquaphor — can be ideal for specific spot treatments on the face, he said, including chapped lips or cheeks, and dry, cracked skin on hands and feet.

One of winter’s biggest conundrums is not the fluctuation of temperature, say dermatologists, but how to best mitigate it, which can seem counterintuitive. A hot shower or bath after a long, cold day may seem like the best way to hydrate the skin, but you’ll be doing your skin more harm than good.

“Hot water exposure is among the worst things for your skin this time of year,” said Dr. Barbara Reed, a dermatologist in Denver. “People splash their face with hot water, jump into a hot bath or stand under the steaming hot water of a shower, and their skin suffers and reacts.”

The cycle is vicious, she said: “The affected skin releases a chemical that makes it feel itchy. So people scrub harder. And, once they’re out of the water, that itchiness may cause them to rub their skin dry with a towel.”

This breaks down the skin barrier further and makes the skin even more susceptible to drying and chapping. Instead, dermatologists recommend using only lukewarm water in the wintertime and a gentle cleanser, followed by a daily moisturizer applied within three minutes of being out of the water to lock in the moisture.

“My rule is the drier the skin, the thicker the moisturizer,” Dr. Reed said. “And, even in the wintertime, especially a dry one like this, I recommend people moisturize daily with a sunscreen of an S.P.F. of 50 or above.”

But, she said, as with many skin issues, her advice is not always taken until it’s too late. People are so preoccupied with coping with the cold and the wind damaging their skin, she said, “a lot of them don’t realize how harmful the sun can be — even if it’s just beaming through your car window.”

Thursday, January 29, 2009

FDA OKs 1st Eyelash Drug Latisse


Latisse Promotes Longer, Darker, Thicker Lashes; Glaucoma Drug Inspired It
By Miranda Hitti
WebMD Health News

Dec. 26, 2008 -- The FDA has approved Latisse, the first drug to promote eyelash growth, according to Allergan, the company that makes Latisse.

Latisse, which will be available by prescription starting in the first quarter of 2009, contains the active ingredient of the glaucoma drug Lumigan, which is also made by Allergan.

Eyelash growth is a known side effect of Lumigan. But Lumigan and Latisse are used differently. Lumigan is an eyedrop, and Latisse gets dabbed along the lash line on the upper eyelids to promote longer, thicker, darker lashes.

Allergan states that "Latisse users can expect to experience longer, fuller, and darker eyelashes in as little as eight weeks, with full results in 16 weeks." If Latisse is stopped, eyelashes will gradually return to their previous appearance as new eyelashes grow in.

Allergan also notes that Latisse may cause darkening of the eyelid skin, which may be reversible, and it "may also cause increased brown pigmentation of the colored part of the eye, which is likely to be permanent."

Latisse may also promote hair growth in other skin areas that it frequently touches, so Allergan recommends blotting it off any skin other than the upper eyelid's lash line to prevent that side effect.

According to Allergan, Latisse was well-tolerated in its clinical trials, with the most common side effects being eye redness, itchy eyes, and skin hyperpigmentation.

Earlier this month, an FDA advisory panel recommended that the FDA approve Latisse and also recommended further studies in certain groups of patients, such as young patients and people who lost their eyelashes to chemotherapy.

Thursday, January 15, 2009

Skin Deep

Seeking Self-Esteem Through Surgery


Published: January 14, 2009

WHEN 18-year-old Kristen of River Edge, N.J., began to develop curves at 15, she was disappointed that breasts didn’t follow. “They never grew,” said Kristen. “I didn’t feel like a woman.”

Ryan Collerd for The New York Times

Kristen, 18, and Michael Laudisio, 22, below, said cosmetic surgery improved their lives

And, in fact, at 15, Kristen wasn’t yet a woman. But to someone raised in a culture of celebrity obsession and makeover TV shows — not to mention the fact that when Kristen was 16, her mother and older sister had received breast implants — she believed a shapely bust line was her due. So, last May, as a high school graduation gift from her parents, Kristen underwent breast augmentation surgery with saline implants, approved by the Food and Drug Administration for people 18 and older.

“I just wanted to look normal, and now I do,” said Kristen, whose family members asked that their last name not be used.

To the rigors of teenage grooming — waxing, plucking, body training and skin care regimens that were once the province of adults — add cosmetic surgery, which is fast becoming a mainstream option among teenagers. But with this popularity, some experts are concerned that the underlying motivation for many of the young people seeking surgery — namely, self-esteem — is being disregarded in the drive to look, as Kristen puts it, “normal.”

The latest figures from the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery show that the number of cosmetic surgical procedures performed on youths 18 or younger more than tripled over a 10-year period, to 205,119 in 2007 from 59,890 in 1997. This includes even more controversial procedures: liposuctions rose to 9,295 from 2,504, and breast augmentations increased nearly sixfold, to 7,882 from 1,326. (The latter two procedures have been associated with the deaths of two 18-year-olds: Amy Fledderman of Pennsylvania, who died in 2001 of fat embolism syndrome after undergoing liposuction, and Stephanie Kuleba of Florida, who died last spring from complications because of anesthesia used during a breast augmentation and inverted nipple surgery.)

At this point, the recession is apparently having little effect on teenage cosmetic surgery. While figures aren’t available for 2008, reports from doctors suggest that parents are keeping their commitments for procedures that are covered by insurance only if considered reconstructive, and that can be costly if they aren’t covered. The most frequent procedure, otoplasty, or ear reshaping, costs an average of $3,000, while rhinoplasty costs $4,500, according to the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery. These costs can be twice as much in the New York area.

“If parents have bought into the concept, if they’re supportive of a procedure for their child, they seem to be going through with it despite the economy,” said Dr. Alan Gold, a plastic surgeon in Great Neck, N.Y., and president of the society.

In fact, one of the most popular times for procedures for young patients is winter break, and several doctors said they noticed no drop in the number of adolescent patients last month.

Critics say that with plastic surgery becoming more common, parents are more likely to find themselves having to learn how to say no to a son or daughter with a tarnished self-image who is begging for the same quick surgical fix that the parents themselves may have had.

“Our children are barraged with images of ideal women and men that aren’t even real, but computer composites,” said Jean Kilbourne, co-author of “So Sexy, So Soon,” a book on teenagers and pre-teenagers. “These girls and boys can’t compete. The truth is, no one can. And it leaves teens feeling more inadequate than ever and a lot of parents unsure as to the right thing to do.”

Dr. Frederick Lukash, a plastic surgeon in New York City and Long Island who specializes in treating adolescents, said: “Unlike adults who may elect cosmetic surgery for that ‘wow’ factor to stand out in a crowd, to be rejuvenated and get noticed, kids have a different mantra. They do it to fit in.”

Still, some parents are at least as concerned about their children’s discomfort with their appearance as their children are. Jill Marks, whose 11-year-old daughter Julia is a rhinoplasty patient of Dr. Lukash’s, said that when Julia was 6 she started taking her to doctors, including ear, nose and throat specialists, to find out what could be done about her crooked nose. “I knew she was having a hard time with it physically, but also emotionally,” Ms. Marks said. “I’d see her in the bathroom pushing her nose to make it straighter. Some kids would ask her, ‘Why’s your nose so crooked?’ I didn’t want her to have to go through that anymore.”

A recent survey of more than 1,000 girls in the United States ages 8 to 17 sponsored by the Dove Self-Esteem Fund — which has a partnership with the Girl Scouts of the U.S.A. and is linked to Dove’s Campaign for Real Beauty, a program aimed at changing narrow cultural definitions of beauty — showed that 7 in 10 girls surveyed believed that when it came to issues including beauty and body image they did not “measure up.” Only 10 percent found themselves to be “pretty enough.”

“It’s clear there is an epidemic of low self-esteem among girls,” said Ann Kearney-Cooke, director of the Cincinnati Psychotherapy Institute, adviser to Dove’s study and author of the book “Change Your Mind, Change Your Body.”

“I work with a lot of teens on body image,” Dr. Kearney-Cooke said. “I have girls who say they want lipo when really what they need is to learn how to exercise and diet. If a girl thinks no waist, big breasts and chiseled features is the only definition of beautiful, I try and teach them to recognize the narrow view of what’s considered acceptable appearance in our culture, and how to challenge that view.”

Apart from the fact that what may be considered less than ideal at 15 or 16 may change over time — baby fat around a chin, say, or small breasts — experts say adolescents may not fully understand that the change they’re making is permanent.

“They may not be any happier with their new look, then what?" asks Diana Zuckerman, president of the National Research Center for Women and Families. “And even if all goes well at first with breast implant surgery, for example, it may require follow-up procedures. And we know how wrong breast implants can go with breast pain, ruptures, hardening, even a strange sloshing sound that sometimes occurs with saline implants.”

But plastic surgeons say that as body parts develop at different rates in different people, the opportunity to transform a teenager with low self-esteem and a crooked nose into someone with self-confidence is often justified because a well-timed operation could prevent destructive behaviors, including eating disorders, bullying and self-mutilation.

“There are general guidelines we follow with regard to physical development, but we take each candidate on an individual basis,” said Dr. Richard D’Amico, a plastic surgeon in Englewood, N.J. “Someone can develop at an accelerated or slowed-down rate. And, of course, levels of maturity vary.”

Michael Laudisio, now 22, of Massapequa, N.Y., admits he might not have been mature enough to understand the full implications when his ears were pinned at age 10, but he said his family’s decision to do it changed his life profoundly. “I had really big ears like no one else and was teased about it all the time,” he said. “That surgery made me free.”

But it can be a very fine line between corrective surgery and cosmetic, and even within a family there can be vastly differing opinions. “I’ve had mothers dragging their daughters in to have something done, and of course, if the teen is not on board, I’ll suggest another appropriate course of action,” said Dr. D’Amico, adding, “You don’t get self-esteem from a scalpel.”